Traditional home of the Xhosa people, the vast and astoundingly diverse Eastern Cape province with its rolling hills and sparkling coastline and Wild Coast is also the birth place of Nelson Mandela. He was born and raised in the village of Qunu.

Formerly known as the Transkei, the Wild Coast was one of the four independent territories during apartheid until it merged with the Eastern Cape in 1994. The second largest of South Africa’s 9 provinces it’s one of the countries most undiscovered tourist attractions.

Lusikisiki

The name of this town comes from the rustling sound of wind as it moves through the grass, named by the local AmaMpondo people. Roughly 45km inland from Port St Johns this town has changed very little over the years. Remote and untamed, time stands still. The AmaMpondo people are friendly and welcoming, the main road of the town bustles, as people move around conducting business.

Flag Staff

Driving down the main road was a true rural experience. Hundreds of people line the streets going about their daily affairs, with no rush, cars and trucks make their way slowly, giving way to almost impossible driving situations. The town’s name was derived from the practise of running a white flag up a flagstaff every Sunday as a signal to prospective customers that on this day the shop was closed. The shop was for Zachariah Bowles and his partner, Mr Owen. Established in 1877 as a trading store in the business centre of town.

Xhosa Tribe

The rich and colourful cultural of the Xhosa people is evident in their clothes and their “ click “ language. In Xhosa culture women are easily recognised by their heavy dress, matching turban and colourful dots decorating their faces. Beadwork similar to the Ndebele is an integral aspect of Xhosa tradition. I was fortunate to meet this beautiful lady sitting behind a burnt out church. Although shy, she was very proud of her appearance. I wished i had more time to sit and speak to her.

Port St Johns

An incredible and unassuming combination of breath- taking views and craggy sea cliffs and idyllic unspoilt beaches. Situated at the mouth of the Umzimvubu River this is one of the top destinations along the Eastern Cape Wild Coast. If your vehicle allows for it take the road up the mountain alongside the river for a magnificent view of the jagged coastline below. The town centre itself is fairly run down but the natural scenery makes up for it ten fold.

Beach 2

Seeing the Nguni cows on the beach was one of the highlights of our trip. The cows come down to beach each day to cool off. Nobody really knows why, but the placid animals seem to enjoy the attention they receive and pose for photos in one of the most romantic settings in the country.

The lodge on the beach

The breathtaking sunset I awoke to was from the balcony of this cozy lodge. Originally a farmhouse built in 1929 it’s one of Port St Johns oldest, quaintest buildings set in a lush subtropical garden.

Steve’s Pub and Restaurant

An inviting spot on the main road through town. Sitting outside on the covered veranda we had difficulty choosing from the extensive menu. This is the most valuable location if you are planning the dirt road route to Coffee Bay, the question Why ? quite simply if it wasn’t for Steve and his map we would probably still be roaming the hills of the Eastern Cape. He has a hand drawn map that he has put together with co ordinates, distances to travel and locations. There is no such map on Google and without it you will get lost. Besides the delicious and affordable meals , Steve is a life saver.

The dirt road

Villages dapple the landscape and hills cloaked in golden grass are characteristic of this area. Thatched turquoise rondavel huts dot the hills in this unspoiled land. Don’t be fooled by the beauty through, this road is not for the feint hearted, one can expect no less than 7 hours of driving with no petrol stations, restaurants and shops ( only the odd spaza shop ) for rugged, untamed beauty and with no need to be rushed by time one couldn’t find a better journey. Driving in the dark is not recommended as in some areas the road is in very bad condition. Also only suitable for 4WD vehicles with a strong, solid suspension.

Coffee Bay

Just 8km down the road from the Hole in the Wall, with rustic accommodation (there is no petrol station in this town ) this is the only other coastal town, besides Port St Johns to have a tar road entering it from the N2. The town was named after a ship that lost its cargo of coffee beans in a wreck off the Wild Coast and the beans were supposedly washed up on the beach to germinate there.The laid back peaceful vibe will have you begrudgingly leave when your holiday is up.

Coffee Shack Backpackers

The most fun backpackers and accommodation in the area, located right on the beach at the Bomvu River. From private rooms to dormitories and camping they have it all.Waking up in the morning and going for a stroll to the beach, buying beads from the local women was like being in a tropical paradise.

Local “ man of all connections “

Zuko was our life saver in Coffee Bay . After having an issue with our vehicle he found us mechanic and spoke fluent English. Next day he brought me some local bead sellers and offered to show us around. And if we needed a good smoke he could assist with this also 🙂 Every town needs a man like this, friendly and well connected.

Hole in the wall

A geographical marvel, the extraordinary natural arch with the thrashing surf, is particularly jaw dropping during high tide. The hole is directly in the path of the Mpako River and it is this, that has eroded the hole. The local Xhosa people called it “ izi Khaleni” which means “ place of thunder “ legend says a young maiden fell in love with the mythical “ sea people “ such was the love of this sea person for the maiden that he and his people rammed a hole in the side of a lagoon wall with the help of a huge fish so they could reach her. She was never heard from again.

Mthatha

Found in 1879 and declared the capital of the Transkei . This is the lively and colourful centre of the region. One of the greatest attractions is the Nelson Mandela Museum in the Bhunga Building in Owen Street. Here one will find the closest airport if planning to fly into the area to travel around.

The scenery of the Eastern Cape is spectacular and the best way to explore this rugged and remote region is with a 4WD vehicle, but that said most roads are in good condition even if they are gravel. I loved it and will be back to see more.