Experience authentic Victoria Falls
The mighty Zambezi River has captured the hearts and minds of travellers for centuries. Flowing into Victoria Falls, one of the world’s most renowned natural wonders the thunderous roar of the waterfall is deafening and at the same time breath taking. The drenching spray periodically makes way for visitors to admire in awe this master piece of an ancient rock face where every crevice tells a story of nature’s artistry.
Enjoying Victoria falls is not only about the natural wonders but also about exploring the quaint town and embracing the peace and tranquility that comes with it.The warmth of the people made the experience whole, the smiles and friendliness for ever welcoming.
How to get to Victoria Falls
The fastest and easiest option is to fly directly from Johannesburg to Victoria falls. There are a few airline options, with some only flying twice a week. I selected our national carrier - SAA and was extremely impressed by the quality and service. The flight takes about 1 hour 45 minutes, with a route that aims to enhance cultural and social connections between the two countries.There is the option of taking a bus from Park Station to Bulawayo and then another bus to Victoria Falls, but its long and tedious. The road between Bulawayo and Victoria Falls can easily take about 7 hours. Then there is the self drive option if one plans to do road tripping in and around Zimbabwe.
Victoria Falls River Lodge
Selecting accommodation is never easy. Fortunately The Safari Guys renowned for creating bespoke heart - crafted African journeys made my dream a reality. Victoria Falls River Lodge set on the banks of the mighty Zambezi and a 2023 Conde Nast winner far surpassed my expectations. The 5 star unseen luxury tent camp complete with private decks, plunge pools and an outdoor free standing bath tub is the first privately owned safari lodge to be built within the Zambezi National Park. Our stay included a sunset cruise where we saw an abundance of hippo and crocodiles lazily floating on the river current. Morning time saw us watching sunrise with the sun tinting the sky in several shades of orange , with a cup of hot chocolate we headed off on an expert - led safari drive to spot some of Africas finest wildlife.
Lunch at the Vulture restaurant
Not very appetising for most this conservation project is unique and informative. Moving onto Victoria Falls Safari lodge to spend some nights we were immediately told about the vulture feeding that takes place daily at 1pm. Off cuts of meat and scraps from the restaurant are packed together and fed to the wild birds. There are two types of vultures present and some malibu storks. Africa’s vulture species are listed as endangered so keeping the birds in close range prevents them eating poisoned meat left out by farmers. The lodge does not charge outsiders to participate in this experience, while one is there its worth having a meal at their terrace restaurant that over looks a large water hole.
Mbano Guest house
The first five star hotel to be owned by a black women in Victoria Falls, with its magazine cover bathrooms and 18 private and secluded luxury suites is the ideal retreat for romantic getaways and executives and is only 4kms away from the Falls. The intimate luxury boutique hotel is nestled in an enclosed ancient teak forest providing peace and tranquility. We loved the serene, surroundings and the spacious, airy suites that are tastefully decorated. The swimming pool is very welcome on the hot Zimbawean days.
Victoria Falls
Located within two National Parks , and visible from both Zimbabwe (75 % ) and Zambia ( 25 %) , ‘ The smoke that thunders “ is one of the world’s seven natural wonders. Given its english name by David Livingstone who discovered the falls in 1855, he named it for the British monarch at the time ,Queen Victoria. Gates open at 6am in summer, on the Zimbabwe side of the Falls you walk through the rainforest, which is the only place on earth to see rain every single day of the year. Entrance fees are $30 for SADAC countries ( proof of identification is required ) and $50 for other country passports. An umbrella or raincoat are a must.
Walk over to Zambia
Straddling the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia is the world’s largest stretch of falling water. Walking over the bridge is something every visitor should do, passport control is quick and easy at both points. Standing on the bridge that was completed in 1905 visitors get to see a portion of the falls. Walking into Zambia its advisable not to carry any shopping packets as the baboons are nuisance and grab them out your hand. The local people warn visitors to pack everything away. Once in Zambia a taxi took us to the small town of Livingston for $10, we passed through elephant corridor where a herd of elephants were grazing alongside the road.
Craft Market
More than 200 talented men and women showcase and sell their art work at the open air market. There are also halls specific to jewellery, bags and home made products. Found close to the Victoria Falls post office its in easy walking distance. Visitors can view some traditional skills like basket weaving.
Currency and banks
US dollars is the main currency used everywhere. Drawing at the ATM was no problem and we found that most places accepted card payments.
Transport — getting around
There are no e - hailing modes of transport but there are sufficient taxis in good condition. The going rate is either $5 or $10 to go somewhere. Don't expect to a see a metre inside the taxi. They only accept cash payments.
The Three Monkeys
Owned by South African’s, every evening at sunset this was our “ go too “ spot. Mouth watering, well priced meals and signature cocktails it just made sense to finish our day here, admittedly we also loved seeing Mimmy the Manageress as she imparted her knowledge on the area and off course what she recommended on the menu.
The buzzing spot is set around a train carriage along the railway tracks complete with an extensive menu and fun vibe. Partially under a huge canvas awning giving an informal indoor / outdoor atmosphere. The “ I “ heart “ Vic Falls “ sign on the wall is the Instagram spot and is lit up at night.
Open 7 days a week, a unique brand of hospitality is guaranteed. Alongside the restaurant is the newly opened Gin distillery that refines one taste of adventure, beautifully designed gin bottles with the Falls image adds to the tourist experience.
Depending on how much time one has in Victoria Falls there is also the option of taking a scenic helicopter ride over the falls. A unique aerial view showcases the iconic natural wonder. Another favourite activity is a dip in Devil’s pool, with its steep precipice and up - close view of the falls its the ultimate infinity pool
Victoria Falls should be on everyones travel list, its a destination I can return to time and time again devoid of boredom and repetition.The warmth, welcoming , optimism of the people and hospitality reminded me why I love Africa - my home.
The best of Bucharest - Capital of Romania
Located in Eastern Europe, Romania is the 9th largest European country by surface with a rich and diverse geography and breath taking natural sights.
Romania is a NATO member since 2004 and a member of the European Union since 2007.
The capital of the country is Bucharest nicknamed “ Paris of the east “ with its elegant early 20th century architecture that indicates french influences its easy to see how the title came about. An underrated destination in Europe, the buzz of the city will captivate you.
Explore Old Town
Only a decade old, Bucharest’s historic core , the old town must be the youngest Old Town in the world. One the stomping grounds of the Princely Court it has been transformed into the place to be , with streets and streets of restaurants , bars and night clubs and boutique stores stocking mostly stylish clothes from Italy. The street is like a magnet, each day in the city one is pulled back there to experience the friendly hospitality of the Romanian people. Occasional street performances take place adding to the vibe of the area.
Macca- Vilacrosee Passage
A fork shaped , yellow glass covered arcade street. This popular indoor spot is a not - so - secret passageway in Old Town frequented by tourists. Many cafes and restaurants have both indoor and out door seating here.
Umbrella Lane
The most photographed spot in Bucharest, umbrellas have become an architectural ornament around the world, Pasajul Victoria is no different, it boasts dozens of colourful umbrellas that transform the gritty alleyway into one of the unmissable spots.
Stavropoleos Church
Built in the 18th century by a Greek monk Loanikie Stratonikeas, the church is tiny and peaceful. Built in Brancoveanu style it features an intricately carved and columned entrance with rich wall paintings inside and finely carved doors.
Gawk at one of the world’s largest buildings
The world’s biggest parliamentary building is in Bucharest. The gargantuan Palace of Parliament is three million plus square feet with more than 1000 rooms with the focus on tons of marble , hardwood, and gold used in the buildings construction in the 1980’s
Arc de Triomphe
A smaller version of the one in Paris, this was built rapidly to celebrate the end of World War 1. On the walnut tree lined street, stands the 27 metre high replica while traffic swirls around it.
Caru’ cu Bere for local cuisine
One of the most famous restaurants in the city and a symbol of Bucharest that began in 1879 by three Mircea brothers. It originally started as a brewery and then became a restaurant in 1899, classified as a historic monument it is noted for its distinctive art nouveau interior decoration. The name means beer cart and is the ideal place to indulge in traditional Romanian cuisine.
Carturesti Carusel book shop
Housed in an early 20th century former bank, this must be the most instagramed spot in Old Town. Its a relaxing place to visit ,with its impressive minimal design that plays with light that filters through a central skylight to make the space appear to visitors as if they are in a moving carousel.
Fountains
Unirii Sqaure has 44 fountains that put on a magnificent display involving, music, lights and dancing water . Early evening when the sun is setting is ideal to sit and marvel at this show. The city is swathed in beautiful parks, the oldest being the Cismigiu Gardens that were designed in the mid 19th century.
Transylvania
The most famous location and “ must do “ on every tourists itinerary. This is a day trip from Bucharest, although long ( around 12 hours ) its well worth it.
The picturesque route through the Carpathian Mountains allows one to discover two of the most beautiful Romanian castles - Peles Castle and Bran ( Dracula’s ) Castle. Stopping for lunch in the city of Brasov in south Transylvania. The Council Square is located in the historic centre of Brasov and held markets from 1364, most of the houses surrounding the square are historical monuments.
The Black Church is over 600 years old and the most famous monument from this old town , its one of the biggest medieval churches in this part of Europe. Its name came from the devastating fire in 1689 which destroyed the town, only the walls, the front and treasury survived, it has been known as the Black Church ever since.
Peles Castle near Sinaia was the summer home of the Romanian royal family from 1883 until 1947.The neo-classical master piece was commissioned by King Carol , and built between 1873 and 1883. It was the first ever European palace to be powered by electricity and to have central heating. The castle was made a heritage site in 1989 and opened to the public, with a wealth of artwork in over 160 rooms, the lavish interior and Fachwerk facades its a magical experience.
Bran Castle better known as Dracula’s castle is steeped in myth, intrigue and history. Made famous by being the inspiration for Dracula’s Castle in the Bram Stoker’s novel Dracula visitors can enjoy rooms dedicated to Transylvania’s most famous count .Positioned high atop a 200 foot high rock it boasts a commanding view of the charming village of Bran and is surrounded by an aura of mystery.
Egg painting is an old and well beloved Easter tradition in Romania, best represented at the Eggs Museum. Watching one of the artists in Bran she told me how it takes 5 hours to complete the delicate art on an egg, each picture tells a story.
Heading back to Bucharest after a long day out one realises that this country has so much to share with travellers and beckons one to return again and again.
The Romanian capital continues to redefine itself, merging its storied history with modern identity. Look more closely at one of the most promising capitals in the European Union and further charms will continue to be revealed.
The 10 most iconic things to do in Sofia - Bulgaria
Sofia is the capital of Bulgaria, a country that forms part of the Balkan Peninsula and one of the oldest cities in the world . One of the best ways to explore this city is on foot, ensuring you don't miss out on any hidden gems and at the same time immersing oneself in the culture while stepping into the heart of the county.
Upon arrival in the city, visitors are captivated by soaring Mount Vitosha while down town awaits with the discovery of grand Orthodox cathedrals, charming open-air book markets, ancient buildings and unexpectedly chic restaurants and cafes.
History peers out periodically exposing the Roman Ruins that the city is built on top of, also going relatively unnoticed are the architectural styling transforming from neo-Byzantine and neo-Baroque to German Functionalism, bauhaus, and communist style buildings.
Traveling on the over night train from Istanbul to Sofia I was immediately amazed by the beauty of the landscape we passed through. Lush surroundings and fields of striking sunflowers created the picturesque background for a train journey. Disembarking from the train the city smelt heavenly from a variety of scents of the 840 000 flowers that adorn the city parks as well as the chestnut trees.
Womens market
One of the most famous bazaars in Sofia, its a feast as far as the eye can see selling fresh produce. Everything from fruits, vegetables, meats and cheeses. There are also souvenir shops, pottery stores and not to be forgotten the delicious Bulgarian chocolate.
Street art
The Soviet post-war period provides the city with affordable socialist era apartment blocks. These have inadvertently provide the cities 21st century street artists with a canvas for large scale mural art. With no less than 53 pieces of art on walls around the city, half the fun is trying to find all these quirky and stylish pieces
Sofia Central Mineral baths
A landmark in the city centre, built in the early 20th century near the former Turkish Bath which was then destroyed and was used as the city’s public baths until 1986 when it was closed due to its neglect. It was slowly reconstructed and now accommodates the Sofia Regional Historical Museum. Beautiful gardens outside create a calm and relaxing space to enjoy the sounds of nature.
Vitosha Boulevard
The main commercial street in the centre of the city, abundant with posh stores , restaurants and bars. There is no better place for people watching in the city, while enjoying a Shopska salad, one of Bulgaria’s national dishes. This traditional cold salad which is served during summer , has colours that recall the Bulgarian flag. This attractive pedestrian zone is the largest shopping street in the capital.
St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
One of the most emblematic sites in Sofia, it is easy to spot from almost any point in the city. Considered one of the most important Orthodox churches in Bulgaria as well as one of the 50 largest Christian Church buildings by volume in the world. Inside one can marvel at the royal thrones and grandiose pulpit and richly decorated interior.
Built to honour Russian soldiers perished during the Russian- Turkish war of 1878 - 1879 , which helped liberate Bulgaria from the Ottoman Empire.
Ivan Vazov National theatre
One of the most ornate buildings in the city is Bulgaria’s national theatre which was founded in 1904 and opened in 1907 , as well as the oldest and most authoritative theatre in the country with a magnificent facade that faces the city garden and fountains. This magical theatre has three stages with the main stage being able to host 860 guests.
Yellow brick road
The road got its nickname from the yellow cobblestone street connecting the road between the royal residence and National Assembly. The yellow stones were donated by Hapsburg, the cousin of Prince Ferdinand of Bulgaria who married Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma in 1893. The Prince wanted the city to be seen as fashionable European capital and so his cousin had them sent as a wedding gift.The yellow pavers were produced in Budapest with material from a local clay pit.
Strawberry house
Built in the late 20’s of the 20th century for banker Dimitar Ivanov and his wife who lived here happily until 1944. After the war the property was nationalised and originally housed the Romanian Embassy. Later the house was a commercial representation of the USSR in Bulgaria . In the 90’s the house was restituted and retuned to the heir of the first owner however it is sadly neglected and over grown. The beauty of the structure still attracts many visitors who hope to get a glimpse inside.
Basement shops
After the fall of communism Bulgarians started their own businesses, however rental space was expensive. This led to the fascinating basement shops that popped up along the sidewalks in Sofia. Known as “klek “ ( ‘knee “ ) shops they operated out of the basements of old buildings through a cellar window not far above the ground. Customers must squat down to make their order and pay the shop keeper.
The square of Tolerance
Sofia is the only place in Europe that has places of worship for 4 major religions close to each other. One is the charming cylindrical St George Rotunda Church built from red brick and considered to be the oldest building in modern Sofia. In this area one can also find the Sofia Synagogue, the largest synagogue in Southeastern Europe and the Banya Bashi Mosque , the only functioning mosque in Sofia. the 4th is the Eastern Orthodox St Nedelya Church.
Bulgaria’s motto is “ Unity Makes strength “ now a united country with a place on the world map and one of Europes best kept travel secrets it is well worth the visit.
Sanctuary Mandela - Welcome Home
Gracing the leafy suburb of Houghton is a grand old dame, standing proudly in all her glory with walls that will forever hold the secrets of what transpired during the years that former president, Mr Nelson Mandela stayed in this beautiful gifted house.
Sanctuary Mandela is a 5 star boutique hotel that comprises of 9 bedrooms, a large heated swimming pool, 2 conference rooms, Insights restaurant and friendly, smiling staff.
When entering the property that Mr Mandela lived in from 1992 until 1998, one of the first things to catch ones eye is the beautiful garden. The original fever tree that was in garden did not survive during the reconstruction process that began in 2018. A new tree now stands next to the pond of reflection and flanked by the magnificent Mandiba roses that were created by Keith Kirsten for the centenary year celebration. Walking up the pathway to the entrance is signage depicting the three most important words for Nelson Mandela - democracy , freedom and peace.
The large archway at the entrance, graced by 2 original pot plants is where Mr Mandela would welcome guests. He would also often sit on the green bench or stand below the arch and read the morning newspaper. Glancing through the business section he would look for companies that were performing well on the JSE and then invite the CEO’S over for breakfast where he would discuss various initiatives with them that required investment like education and the children’s hospital. In the archway there is a statue of Nelson Mandela commissioned by sculptor Andre Prinsloo who also sculptured the statue at the Union Buildings in Pretoria and the statue in Nelson Mandela Square in Sandton.
The white painted section is the original house with all the original wooden window frames that were refurbished. The two bricks sections were added on to enhance the concept of the hotel. Some of the original bricks from the house with the Coronation logo were used to build the reception desk, the company later changed their name and become known as Corobrick. The original house had 5 bedrooms, three of the these were kept and the other 6 were added. Every bedroom has a name given to Mandela during his life. Its not often a person can say they slept in a Presidential suite where an actual president lived. Room 4 is the smallest, it represents the prison cell that Mandela stayed in while on Robbin island. Outside each room is a picture that was commissioned by artist John Meyer, 16 images in total were painted and the Sanctuary Mandela got print number 67 of the collection which is significant as it is a reminder of the 67 years of service by Nelson Mandela to the country. The art around the hotel is updated very 6 to 8 months making return visitors eager to follow more of the late presidents story.
The original study of the house is named the Dalibhunga room, meaning the convenor of meetings in Xhosa which is exactly what happened here where some very influential people met and documents of great importance were signed.
Heading towards the bar area there is a large wooden art piece hanging on the wall, this is some of the original parquet flooring that was salvaged in 2018 after the squatters had moved out. At this point the house was in shambles and it was not safe to walk on the second floor. Images hang at reception so patrons can appreciate the different stages of life that this property has experienced. Kim H Interiors was responsible for the tasteful and classy decor of the establishment , reviving the elegant house while at the same time remembering its story.
Insights restaurant was inspired by former American President Mr Bill Clinton who would visit Mr Mandela at his home. Pictures adorn the wall sharing fond memories of these encounters. The restaurant can cater for 35 people and the mouth watering food is prepared by none other than Mama Xolisa Ndoyiya, the former chef who prepared meals from Mr Mandela for 20 years. She has created a menu that includes some of his favourite dishes and various ingredients come fresh from the garden. Chef Ndoyiya’s food leaves guest feeling content and satisfied and more importantly wanting to return for more. The Cape Malay mussels on the menu are a definite win.
When Mandela had completed his term as president he moved to the house in 12th avenue in Houghton. The Nelson Mandel Foundation then moved into the premises in 1999 but left in 2002 when they had out grown the space. The breath taking hotel then opened its doors in September 2021.
Ample parking, superb wifi connection, friendly and attentive staff and all one could want from a bedroom this
hotel is a gem waiting to be discovered in Johannesburg.
When staying over remember to request a tour of the hotel, the guide is very happy to impart his knowledge.
Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela 18 July 1918 - 5 December 2013
Makalali Private Game Reserve
From the Big 5 to luxury river lodges, delicious meals to African sunsets , no one can deny that the African bush is easy to get obsessed with. I say this because I know I did.
Makalali Private Game reserve must be one of South Africa’s best kept luxury lodge secrets. What you see from the entrance does not prepare you for what’s tucked neatly inside.
This exclusive lodge provides luxury with exceptional service.
Makalali which means “ place of rest “ is set in a malaria area on 26 000 hectare conservancy in the Hoedspruit region west of the Kruger National Park.Home to over 1000 wild animals including Africa’s “ Big 5 “ one won’t be disappointed when out on a game drive in the morning and late afternoon.
The child friendly property comprises of three camps with 6 luxury suites located on the Makhutswi River as well as the main lodge with 30 rooms. Blending in effortlessly with the bush, the lodge allows guests to continuously experience the natural beauty of their surroundings.
With a classic bush feel, the rooms exude a seemingly effortless elegance. The high peeked thatch roof, the outdoor shower - my personal favourite and a deck with breathtaking views over the sweeping bush below means a person couldn't want for anything more. Full length glass windows running parallel with the deck of each of the 6 luxury rooms, providing uninterrupted views, and a strong, bold front door that opens widely, bringing the smell and sounds of the outdoors in.
The 6 luxury rooms are uniquely dressed in soothing textures and tones of white with a splash of colour. With light streaming in through the large windows you can be forgiven for finding your king size bed to be the most comfortable spot in the room. The well sized oval bath tub is not only a great focal point but also blissful, lying in the steaming hot bath after having listened to an African thunderstorm, the wet smells of the bush kept inside the room, enhancing the overall sense of tranquility. Amenities in the room included a Nespresso coffee machine, mini bar, air con, hair dryer, safe, bath robes and bug spray.
The day ends with dinner under the tapestry of stars sitting around a raging fire in a boma. This is where you can enjoy the heart of Africa. The boma “ which originates from Swahili , is used to describe an enclosure - usually where sheep and cattle were kept. Nowadays a boma signifies a place where people come together to eat, chat, tell stories , sing and dance. Boma dinners at Makalali are truly unique and enjoyed by all , the potjie pots bubbling with juicy meat which is served on a hot bed of pap is one of the tasty options. With full stomachs and lots of giggles we made our way up the path way guided by torch light back to our turned down beds.
Extraordinarily beautiful in its simplicity and textures, the lodges timeless design incorporates wood, thatch , glass , water and sand enhancing and blending effortlessly with the surrounding landscape. The open plan restaurant is spacious but cosy, opening out onto the deck and pool where one can watch the animals in the river bed below. This would be the informal meeting hub of the lodge where guests relax and chat.
The multitude of game includes lion, buffalo, elephant rhino, leopard, eland, kudu, springbuck, brown hyena, jackal, cheetah, zebra, giraffes , impala, hippo, baboons and duiker. The best way to see them is to take full advantage of both game drives offered each day.
Creating a unique and memorable experience for each guest , ensuring personal attention from the knowledgeable guides on the game drives through the magnificent surrounds, sipping on refreshing beverages at the pool, and a superb dinning experience, guests are sure to leave feeling pampered , refreshed and eager to return.
The crown jewel of Southern Africa this unspoiled African bushveld made me realise why my roots are deep in Africa. It’s an experience that connects you with the wild side and can only be fully understood once you have breathed the African wilderness and witnessed the charismatic animals up close , wandering freely in their homeland.
Makalali is an authentic slice of bush life that exudes calmness and depicts the pinnacle of 5 star accommodation and food.
48 Hours in Baku, Azerbaijan
This contemporary city criss - crossed with history is a “ must do “ on anyones bucket list. The landscape features modern elegance like the Flame Towers to the old medieval city that is full of life. Baku is the architectural love child of Paris , albeit with plenty of Soviet genes floating half - hidden in the back ground.
Here East and West blend seamlessly or maybe chaotically, in the heart of the city, is the Unesco - Listed Old City that lies within an arc of the fortress wall.
The second oil boom for the country started around 2006, and turned the city into an architectural experiment of some of the finest, jaw dropping masterpieces one could see when looking at the new buildings.
These are some of my recommendations on where to stay, what to do and what to look out for.
Hyatt hotel
Comfort, luxury and location, the Hyatt Regency Hotel in Baku has it all covered. Located on Izmir street this 5 star premium hotel is strategically located close to the city’s shopping malls, and business district. It has an indoor and outdoor pool and free , unlimited wifi. Not far from all tourist attractions like the carpet museum and boardwalk its ideal for any traveller.
Flame Towers
Day or night the trio of iconic buildings completed in 2012 is spectacular. Looking up at them during the day I had that queasy feeling that they were swaying because of their sheer height. These towers are the WOW factor of Baku, having transformed the skyline of Azerbaijan’s capital. Designed to symbolise the element of fire, they are a reference to Azerbaijans nickname “ The land of fire “, historically rooted in a region where natural gas flares emit from the ground.
Martyrs lane
Also known as Alley of Martyrs this area was formally Kirov Park, now a cemetery and memorial dedicated to those killed by the Soviet Army during Black January 1990 and the first Nagorno - Karabakh war from 1988 to 1994. Just a 3 minute walk from the Flame Towers it over looks the Caspian Sea. The Eternal Flame monument situated at the end of Central avenue is massive, you can feel the heat a few metres away. From the location one gets the best views of the bay curving to the horizon to the east.
The Caspian Front Promenade
As with any modern boulevard in the world there is a ferris wheel that lights up the night sky on the coastline of the Caspian sea. “ can you smell the wealth ? “ was the first question I was asked as I got close to the calm waters, the answer was ‘ yes “ . Azerbaijan is known for its wealth emanating from the oil below the ground. Strolling along the water front there is something for everyone from carousels and parks for children, shopping malls , cafes , cycling and more. The biggest park in Azerbaijan, it is 26 km long and starts from the Port of Baku on one side and ends at the National Flag Square where there his the biggest flag of the world.
Pomegranates
Known as the king of fruits, the distinct bright, juicy fruit from Azerbajian is recognised as one of the best in the world due to the country’s unique microclimate and fertile soil. The only country in the world where all varieties grow, because of the diverse climate the tasty pomegranate is enjoyed as a drink or in an edible form.There is even an annual festival celebrated in Goychay that cerebrates the fruit and its traditional uses and symbolic meaning.
Maidens tower
This 12th century monument located in the Old City forms part of a group of historic monuments. A much loved symbol of the old city it looks dark and enigmatic, looking out onto the sea. Climbing the stairs is well worth the view from the roof where one can take in the alleys and minarets of the Old City and a wide vista of Baku Bay. In 2011, the tower participated in the “ Earth Hour “ campaign against climate change when large buildings go dark for an hour.
The old city
Referred to as Icherisheher this is the historical core of Baku, the humble heart of the capital it is one of the most important historical places and must do’s when visiting the city. An oval shaped pocket of curving roads, one can imagine the trading of carpets, silks and wares over the centuries. Sunken ruins and restaurants add to the bustle and vibe, while walking I found a delightful little art shop where the artist took great pride in showing me her art. Cats laze in the sun while people go about their daily rituals. This is not a visit that should be rushed, the enjoyment lies in the relaxed atmosphere.
Nizami lane
The largest pedestrian and shopping centre street in downtown Baku it is named after classical Persian poet Nizami Ganjavi. Locals love to shop here in the glamorous brand shops and enjoy dinner in a local or international restaurant. Others just enjoy the walk while taking pictures . There is something here for everyone be it the random statues, fountains or the night life like the Hard Rock Cafe.
Burning mountain
Burning for 4000 years non stop, through all types of weather be it rain, snow or wind. This incredible phenomena is worth the drive out of Baku city centre. The flames jump as high as 3 metres into the air from a thin, porous sandstone layer. There is also a small museum that is worth the walk through where ancient pots are on display as well as other interesting sties to visit in the country.
Kose kahve
Cute and cozy coffee shops have a special type of appeal to them. Kose coffee is just that. Maybe it was the whiff of coffee as we walked past or the country style decor that pulled us in. Whatever it was, this coffee shop is well worth the find for a morning cup as one wonders the city’s streets and alley ways soaking in the rich culture and admiring the magnificent architecture of the buildings.
Cotton
Leaving the city and heading towards the country side, one sees fields and fields of cotton. Referred to as the “ White gold “ of Azerbaijan, cotton has a long history of production in the country. In 2020, the county exported $132 million in raw cotton, making it the 13th largest exporter of raw cotton in the world.
Need to know :
South African passport holders require a visa. The application is done online and costs 25 USD
Health certificate proving vaccination for COVID is required when arriving in Baku
Qatar airlines is a good option, flying from Johannesburg to Doha then connecting to Baku
Most people speak English so communication is not difficult
There are taxi cabs, Uber and Bolt all reasonably priced and accessible
The plug points are European so best to carry an adaptor
There is no difference in dress code, stylish and modern clothing is worn with all major luxury brands and known brands available.
WIFI is easy to access and getting a sim card for a phone valid for 30 days is another suggestion.
Retailers accept bank cards for payments and cash ( local currency only called the Manat )
Keiskamma Project
The opening of the Keiskamma Art Project exhibition took place on Heritage Day, the 24 September 2022 at Constitutional Hill. Many people joined in on the day with numerous international visitors participating in the free tours offered by the museum as well as performances and exhibitions. The day celebrates the cultural wealth of South Africa and its people, where everyone comes together and remembers the various cultures that make up the rainbow nation.
Tapestries were on display throughout the women and mens prison. Sitting with Eunice Nombulelo Mangwane a mother and grandmother in-front of the magnificent tapestry, she shared her story of her daughter and grandchildren who are HIV positive.
The tapestry was created by more than 130 people, both men and women in the area of Hamburg Bodium and Ntilini, rural villages in the Eastern Cape in honour of those who have passe don from HIV related illnesses. The Altar piece comprises of three separate panels that open like cupboard doors. It incorporates various textile art techniques , including embroidery, beading, appliqué, simple stump/ raised work and photography. The altar piece tells a story of faith and hope.
Measuring four meters by seven meters it made its debut in Canada at the 16th International AIDS Conference in 2006. Each of the 10 panels tells a modern story of life today with images depicting loneliness , hardship and confusion to a promise of of friendship , hope and restored pride. The first opened panels reveal scenes of the never - ending circle of life, village festivals , church congregations and ever evolving spiral of animals and sea creatures.
Making the altar piece provided many local Xhosa people with work, in turn this helped with alleviating poverty. It also eased the stress and anxiety of people striving to regain self esteem and provide for their families.
Poignantly the sections of blanket stitched into the piece are taken from the blankets under which members of the community had suffered and died, this process was away of dealing with the grief and acknowledging and honouring those who had passed on. it brought about a new sense of pride and dignity in the Hamburg community.
Most of the success of the Altarpiece has been made possible by the sale of Keiskamma embroidered items and monetary donations over the years with Anglo American being a main sponsor.
The day was a resounding success where everyone enjoyed and appreciated the immense diversity of the country and its culture.
The Mpondo Festival
The Pondo Heritage and Cultural Festival of 2022 was held in Matshona Village, Ntabankulu in the Eastern Cape over the weekend.
Her Majesty Acting Queen Nobandla Sigcau and the Royal family as well as the Turkish Ambassador and a variety of cultures from South Africa and beyond which included Pedi, Venda, Tswana, Sotho, Ndebele, Xhosa, Bhaca, Tsonga Kingdoms and Chieftainships were present.
The Mpondo Culture and Heritage Festival has taken place annually since 2006 , Princess Stella Sigcau II ensured that this years event was full of entertainment including the Reed dance, horse parade and sightseeing of the Kingdom.
The Mpondo kingdom was established as far back as the year 1280, Njanya fathered twins , Mpondo and Mpondomise. Mpondo went on to establish the amaMpondo while Mpondomise established the amaMpondomise. People of the Pondo nation speak a Nguni called isiMpondo, one of the 12 Xhosa speaking tribes. The kingdom which has approximately 10 million people who occupy the land between the Mtata and Mtamvuna rivers is currently under the rule of His Majesty King Nkosi Jongilanga Sigcau after the passing of His Majesty King Zanozuko Sigcau at the end of May 2022 aged 47 years.
The amaMpondo are currently calling for their language to be recognised as the 12th official language of South Africa.
The amaPondo proudly celebrate their culture , traditions and heritage. The vibrant coloured houses dot the rolling hills, interestingly the Pondo Palm is only found on the north bank of 2 specific rivers in Mpondoland. This magnificent landscape is filled with waterfalls that cascade over high rocks , deep river gorges that curve between the mountains and the horse shoe bend where the river changes direction. Not to be forgotten are the unspoilt beaches that make up the Wild Coast where for centuries many shipwrecks have taken place due to the rough seas. The first recored shipwreck in the area was in 1552.
The weekends festivities included performances from musicians, dancers, school choirs and presentations from the Eastern Cape House of Traditional Healers, the local municipality and the royal families.
My favourite food was the dombolo bread, a traditional South African steamed bread . The bread is prepared in a container in a pot of boiling water as opposed to being baked. It is prepared using yeast instead of baking powder. Everyone who attended went home with a full stomach and a happy heart. Immersing oneself in to the traditional ways of South Africas’ people reminds us what a beautiful and diverse country we live in.
Nairobi in a nutshell
I have waited my entire life for this moment.From as far back as I can remember I always wanted to go to Kenya to see the Maasai people and to travel to Mombasa. My interest was sparked when I watched the movie Out of Africa, its funny how something can have an impact on us and stay wedged in our brains for ever.
I planned a trip back in 2011, it didn't work out and I landed up going to another country. So when the opportunity came around again I couldn't refuse. There was only time for Nairobi so I didn't get to Mombassa but its definitely on the “ to do list “ for next time.
While in Nairobi these are some places I recommend visiting. I hired a driver who came to fetch me each morning and took me to my desired places. He also recommend some which I really appreciated. Traffic is crazy in Nairobi, so getting a driver who knows the way around is a must.
Stay at Orchid Homes
Very close to the united Nations complex and some embassies. It is in a quiet neighbourhood with good security. What was also useful was the Village Market shopping mall was not to far away. The lovely pool area with outdoor seating is perfect for a sundowner. The rooms vary so best to check which room you get. Beautiful hand carved four poster beds with mosquito nets are found in each room. The staff arranged my driver for me and my transfer from the airport that was 17km away.
Thorn tree cafe
The Stanleys Hotels legendary pavement cafe is still a favourite for travellers. The original thorn tree notice board in the courtyard was my reason for visiting. It was inspired by Lonely Planets own online Thorn Tree Forum. The cafe is now using it third acacia tree and the board is no longer the paper fest it once was, its still nostalgic and worth a visit. COVID has also played a part in people no longer leaving their hand written notes. I ordered my first proper Kenyan coffee at the cafe, sadly I was not very impressed but still glad that I got to sit momentarily in a spot that many travellers have passed through some even doing a Cape to Cairo trip.
Sarovaa Stanley hotel
Rated as one of the best 5 star hotels in Nairobi it offers 212 stylish rooms. The thorn tree cafe is only one part of this historic hotel. The luxury of the heritage hotel delivers a wonderous old world charm whilst offering modern facilities. The roof top pool is a hidden gem with greenery and high walls, perfect to escape the summer heat.The story of the hotel begins with Mayence Bent as the original founder in 1902 when the first hotel come guest house opened its doors in Nairobi. In 1904 there was The Great fire of Victoria Street which destroyed the hotel , Mayence moved her guests to a temporary spot and set up the new hotel that we see today. There have been many influential guests over the years at this iconic hotel including Baroness Karen von Blixen ( author of Out of Africa ) Ernst Hemingway, Grace Kelly, Eva Gardner, Sidney Poitier and Sean Connery to name but a few.
All Saints Cathedral
The Cathedral of the Anglican Church of Kenya is one of the largest and oldest churches in Nairobi. Founded in 1917 and consecrated as a cathedral in 1952 it was designed in the British Gothic style and built from Kenyan stone. Congregation on Sunday is around 4500 people with a total of 13 services held throughout the day. When I visited a wedding was about to take place so I didn't get to spend to much time inside however the young girl dressed up for the ceremony caught my eye as she sat alone in silence with her mask on bopping to the music being rehearsed. A magnificent building its well worth the visit.
Jomo Kenyatta Conference centre and monument
For a small fee ( paid by card only ) one can take the elevator up 28 floors to get a panoramic view of the city. Located in the city square , the venue is a crucial address for government offices and has a strong military presence. The internationally renowned venue is used for conferences , meetings and exhibitions.
Maasai market
You can’t avoid stopping in one of the hundreds of markets. I went to the one close to the conference centre as it was in easy walking distance. WOW was I spoilt for choice. The quality of products made, friendliness of people and not over pushy was like a shopping heaven for me. I left having very over shopped but was so happy with each and every purchase from beaded shoes to jewellery , a statement piece handbag and much more. The ladies were also very happy to allow me to take photos with no strings attached.
Karen Blixen museum
The moment I had been waiting for. Quite a drive out from where I was staying so the excitement was mounting. On arrival we parked under the big shady trees, I paid my entrance fee and went inside. There are quite a few guides offering their service at the entrance.The museum was once the centre piece of a farm at the foot of the Ngong Hills owned by Danish author Karen and her Swedish husband Baron von Blixen Fincke. Walking through the house it has maintained a serene environment that still seems to belong in the past, many pieces of furniture that Karen sold to Lady McMillian on her departure where acquired back and constitute part of the exhibition.
Karen Blixen cafe
Just down the road is the cafe set in the midst of one of the oldest formal gardens in Kenya with huge jacaranda trees. The historic Swedo house at the cafe and cottages was the original hunting lodge which was built around 1906. With an extensive menu it was difficult to choose, I loved the bread sticks that arrived with a pot of butter to snack on. The food was delicious and the setting tranquil with pieces of art on display in the garden.
The Bomas
It was a public holiday in the country on the day I decided to go and see the Bomas, so entrance was free. The touristic village opened in 1971 , there are displays of replicas of traditional villages belonging to several Kenyan tribes. Talented resident artists perform traditional dances and songs, seeing the Maasai dance and the African waltz where highlights of the afternoon.
The Matatus
These brightly coloured buses are privately owned and feature portraits of famous people or slogans and sayings. They zigzag through streets blaring out music taking commuters to and from work.
Out of Africa chocolate / local coffee
While out and about I discovered this delicious chocolate, coupled with some renowned Kenyan coffee I was in my happy zone . My two favourite addictions in one great city.
This was without a doubt one of my favourite African experiences. Ending off with a quote from Karen who honours the Ngong hills with the phrase “ I had a farm in Africa at the foot of the Ngong Hills ”
Go C Mauritius
Often described as a lost dot in the immensity of the Indian Ocean , this Island is an explosion of tastes, flavours and beautiful blue waters. I was so excited when Mauritius finally opened up to international tourists again. They had been under lock down for a long period of time due to COVID so the island holidays were put on hold for South Africans. I was lucky enough to get a flight on their opening day but on Kenya airlines, so didn't fly direct. As I always say the journey is just as much fun as the destination, check in was not easy, it took an hour and even flying business class there was none of the “ special treatment “ finally aboard I was eternally grateful for my reclining and comfy seat next to the window. Interestingly the food for business class and economy was the same, but we did receive the inflight toiletry bag. I loved flying Kenya airlines, I found the crew friendly and warm with a smile on their face.
Arrival in Mauritius was another story, we required a vaccination card and a PCR test, on arrival all passengers had to do another free PCR test at the airport and then they came around to our hotel and did blood tests. More time was spent questioning us about our health than anything else. Once I had my luggage I was then taken aside by the police and questioned for over half an hour, basically as a women flying alone this raises questions. They emptied my bag, searched everything, scanned it again, took notes on my documents and then finally deiced they should let me go as they couldn't find anything wrong.
Based on this welcome to Mauritius I will never again return. I have traveled to more than 50 countries and never once been treated this way. It left a bitter taste in my mouth and quite frankly there are far more beautiful islands to visit. That said I will share some of the places I experienced as they were beautiful and I loved seeing them.
Stay at lux Hotel
If its 5 star luxury you want then this hotel has it all. Located on the magnificent beach front, it has an enormous pool, perfect to lounge around all day and sip cocktails or enjoy one of their yummy ice creams.The tranquil waters and soft breeze give way to a totally reimagined retro-chic tropical resort in Grand Gaube, on the north coast of Mauritius. It is enveloped by undulating coves, the calmest of lagoons and is blessed with two tranquil beaches.
Botanical Gardens
The oldest botanic gardens in the southern hemisphere with over 650 varieties of plants, the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden, commonly known as the Pamplemousses Botanic Garden, is a 60 acre site that owes its development to Pierre Poivre, the French Intendant of Mauritius. The garden was initially opened as a private garden by the French governor of Mauritius nearly 300 years ago, and later it became the national botanical garden of the island.
Ganga Talao Sacred site
Commonly known as Grand Bassin in Mauritius is a crater lake, about 550 metres above sea level. It is by far the most important Hindu site on the island. In 1972, the then Prime Minister of Mauritius, Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, brought Ganga (Holy) water from Gomukh, India, and mixed it with the water of Pari Talao and renamed it as Ganga Talao. Mauritius is the only place where Maha Shivratri is a week-long festival. Maha Shivratri, the Grand Night of Shiva, is celebrated only on a single day around the rest of the world including India.
Le Bois cheri tea farm
Tea is a favourite drink on the island. The Bois Cheri tea plantation started in 1892 and today is the largest tea producer of tea on the island. They offer tea tasting and have a restaurant with sweeping views.
Pont Naturel
To take in the whole panorama, one must get to higher ground. At the natural bridge , a true labour of love
wrought into shape by the brute force of the elements, get up close and personal for some jaw dropping pictures and unforgettable views of the wild South. This was my favourite of all the locations, a very windy day it was rather hairy walking along the bridge with the surging sea crashing about me, I just wished that I had more time to spend here.
Red roof church
The iconic red church is one of the most renowned churches on the island. The Roman Catholic Church, The Notre Dame Auxiliatrice Chapel is famous for its vivid red roof against the bright turquoise sea and azure sky. This simple chapel was founded in 1938 and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary
Located ten minutes from Grand Bay is the small fishing village of Cap Malheureux. It translates to “Unfortunate/Unhappy Cape”, due to the numerous ships, which floundered there in the past.
Port Louis
The capital of Mauritius. Known for its French colonial architecture and the 19th-century Champ de Mars horse-racing track, the oldest race course of the Southern hemisphere. The Caudan Waterfront is a lively dining and shopping precinct, the biggest attraction being the umbrella lined street. Nearby, vendors sell local produce and handicrafts at the huge Central Market. The Blue Penny Museum focuses on the island’s colonial and maritime history, along with its culture. China Town is in the centre of the city, with its impressive gateway , the Sino-Mauritian culture in all authenticity and flavours is waiting to be discovered. The countless restaurants make one dizzy with all the specialities from the Far East on offer.
Salt Pans
The Tamarin Salt Pans are amongst the oldest salt farms in Mauritius dating back to the 18th century.This is sadly the last place in Mauritius that salt is produced using traditional methods that have not changed in over 200 years.Sea water is pumped directly from the lagoon into large black cobblestone ‘pans’ and simply left to evaporate. I was so excited to see the pans and lucky enough to be able to go inside
Chamarel
In the South of Mauritius , the Vallee des Couleurs is set on an authentic natural site. The 7 coloured earths are a geographical formation found in the Chamarel plain. Even if one were to mix the colours together they will still settle into separate layers again. The undulating surface, which is totally unique and several millennia old, results from chemical interaction between the air and volcanic ash produced by the eruption of the Bassin Blanc volcano. While there make sure you go and see the Chamarel Waterfall which is 272ft high, the highest waterfall in Mauritius.
Panoramic restaurant
When you leave the Chamarel rum estate pop into the Varangue Sur Morne restaurant down the road. The gift shop had me rather excited and I found some lovely hand crafts here including a beautiful shopping basket that I couldn't resist buying. The restaurant offers breath taking panoramic views of the edge of the Black River Gorge National Park with seating on a covered porch. It sits at a 600m altitude.
Old sugar mills
Driving around the island one will see old sugar mill chimneys peeking out of long grass and amongst old buildings. The first sugar mill was at Grande Rosalie, also known as Villebague. It is the oldest commercial sugar mill in Mauritius, started in 1744 but operated some years later. The site is now a National Heritage. There were more than 250 around the island at one point. However, with time, due to economic and war issues in mainly European countries, the price of sugar has been constantly decreasing since the end of the 1880s. The total number of sugar mills' chimneys now in Mauritius is 110, including those which are still active.
Fruit and veg market
Market day happens twice a week , you can buy everything from fresh fruit and veggies to textiles and my favourite the freshly cut coconuts ready to drink. A few metres from the Northern Bus station , this historic place is loaded with local culture. Its vibrant and full of energy.
Mauritius, a volcanic island is only a 4 hour flight from Johannesburg , the vibrant island with its silky soft beach sand, turquoise bays , sparkling lagoons is what island holidays are made of.
